Poor, forgotten, passed over eye cream. Like one of the little sisters in Pride and Prejudice no one hardly gives them a second thought. Even the most fastidious women often skip this step or delay use until things have started to go south. To get a better idea on their importance and when to begin using eye cream, we discussed the topic with skincare chemist and founder of sopHistry, Sopiea Mitchell, and Vice President of Treatment at Burke Williams Day Spas, Diane Hubbard.
When to start using eye creams
“I recommend women start using eye cream in their mid twenties. Collagen production really takes a big nose dive and starts to slow down between twenty-six to thirty years old. And you want to hit it right on that cusp so you’re ahead of the game,” explains Diane. In addition to decreasing collagen production, estrogen, the hormone linked to producing hyaluronic acid, a key component of keeping the epidermis hydrated, begins to spiral downward. One reason why keeping the eye area hydrated is a top priority.
Ingredients to look for in an eye cream
“Look for tetra peptides that brighten and build the skin and support collagen. Also, hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acids are great. I also really recommend using oil based cleansers for removing makeup. When you use water based makeup removers or eye makeup remover it takes more effort to remove and you’re usually using a cotton ball, pulling and tugging. It does a lot of damage,” says Sopiea.
For an eye cream with both peptides and hydrating hyaluronic acid, try NARS Total Replenishing Eye Cream. The all-in-one eye gel cream addresses dryness, dark circles, puffiness, and wrinkles. And for a cleansing oil, best to go with the original. Shu Uemura cleansing oils have been our favorite since the beginning. Unfortunately, the brand is no longer available in the states, but feel free to peruse their online shop. They have oils for each and every skin type or skincare concern.
Could eye makeup be making things worse? O.M.G….
“We have quite a few clients around twenty five years old,” says Sopiea, “And I’ve found that because they do a smoky eye makeup look, that’s popular, and wear false lashes, basically, putting a lot of eye makeup on day to day, they have more age lines than older woman who don’t wear a lot of eye makeup. It’s all from makeup. Not just the application of it, but the removing of it. The tugging with brushes and removing it with a cotton pad causes creases and wrinkles to form. And in addition to that, if you see women who have been wearing dark eye makeup for a long time, when they don’t have makeup on you will see a shadow in their eye area. Those shadows are the coloring agents of the makeup staining the skin over time.”
To avoid this, make sure to use an eye shadow primer. It acts as a barrier between your skin and the makeup. Two Faced Shadow Insurance is our go-to. Super lightweight, your makeup will last all day without creasing and we love that a little goes a long way. And always, always remove makeup with a gentle oil based makeup remover.
–by BOND EN AVANT
Photographed by Amy Chang